Lawn Fertilization Service

YES! WE will spray on ever application unless the temperatures are above 80-90 degrees that day. Usually that means all applications, but sometimes the July-August applications need skipped.

Just like any product, if the instructions are followed they are safe.  After completing each service we will give you instructions. In general, you will want to stay off the grass until spray dries (usually a few minutes to an hour) and the granular product has been watered in. An example we use is soap for kids/pets. If either of them drank soap or shampoo, it would not be good. But if the instructions for how to use the product are followed, they are good!

Service is generally between the dates on the application step in the quote. Within that time frame, we will email the day before. 

We will email a confirmation, and we will leave a marker flag in your yard. 

Please check our website for the full program. In general there is fertilizer applied on every application. During the season we will apply a pre emergent, grub control, and spray for weeds. 

It can take a few days for the effects of our applications to show on the weeds. Please allow several days for the weeds to begin to die. If your lawn isn't established or this is the first season we have serviced you, please understand its not an overnight process. The best way to keep weeds out is a thick, healthy lawn with atleast 1 full seasons pre emergents applied. The 2nd season with us is when the lawn really gets dialed in. As we continue through the program and build up the thickeness of your grass we will choke out the weeds, which is the best weed prevention approach.

This really depends on the condition of the yard before we started. If you have new sod or your lawn is established, then we are just maintaining the health of your lawn. If you haven't used a program in the past, or your lawn is thin, patchy, or has weeds, it will take some time to irradicate the weeds and thicken up the lawn. Each application we will kill weeds, but its impossible to keep them out until the lawn is thick and full. Weeds ALWAYS out compete grass in open dirt areas, so we can spray them but the lasting approach is to create thick, dense grass. After our first application you will notice substantial results. The best results are noticed and we make the most progress when we finish the 2nd seasons spring applications. 

Fall is the best time to kill dandelions and other broadleaf weeds. Late spring is the best time to kill crabgrass while its young. We do spray throughout the season, but these are the times when we get the best effects that are longest lasting.

Yes, it is our 3rd application. We highly recommend a grub control because its cheap insurance, and it has some fertilizer with it. Grubs can do thousands of dollars in damage causing a full replacement of your lawn with sod. Some competitors offer plans without a grub control because its cheaper, but this isn't in the best interest of your lawn. 

1-2" per week. The more you water the more your grass will grow. For lawns stressed, thin, or full of weeds definately water on the higher end. The best defense against weeds is a thick lawn with lots of grass so the weeds can't compete or survive in a seed stage. Watering more will cause your lawn to grow more and faster, thus repairing itself. Pro tip - place a rain gauge or container in your lawn while the sprinklers are going and measure how much you are actually watering. Adjust the time your zone runs to achieve the 1-2" of water per week. Rain counts! In the spring you may not need to water much at all, but definately water throughout the summer and into fall. 

Water your lawn once or twice a week, early in the morning as the sun rises. Watering 1-2 times per week will cause the grass to grow deeper roots because you are soaking the lawn. This will help your lawn survive the summer better when rain is less frequent. Mowing more than twice a week, and in small frequent amounts causes grass roots to stay near the soil surface thus causing the lawn to burn in hot, dry days.

A thick, healthy, full lawn with mowing at a tall cut height is best. Chemicals are a short term band aid to kill and keep weeds out. We use chemicals to keep out weeds while building a thick healthy lawn. Once achieved, thick, full grass is far superior to keeping out weeds. This is because a seed will struggle to survive when neighboring plants are choking out sunlight, and using up resources for the young plant. This is why a thick healthy lawn will naturally keep weeds at bay if maintained. Cutting grass taller also helps because it will reduce sunlight available to seeds like weeds. A thick healthy lawn with pre emergent in the spring is a great foundation for long lasting weed free lawn.